FIRST FOREIGN VIEW OF PĀʻULAʻULA & WAIMEA
By William Ellis, Surgeon-Cook Expedition 1778


While this may be the first foreign picture of the Royal Compound, oral histories and archeological evidence suggests that it pre-existed this date. Its general location is referenced in moʻolelo from Kukona’s rule four centuries before the Cook Expedition. The west side of the Waimea river was more heavily populated, and more kanaka lived and farmed further up into the valley, canyons and mountains beyond.

Missionaries arrived with intentions to set up churches and school to christianize and educate Hawaii people. Kaumualiʻi received them with open arms. They carried priceless gift; returning his long lost first-born son by a commoner wife, whom he entrusted at age six and sent with a ship captain to America to provide a global education. The King also had a strong desire to provide an education of learning to read & write in a foreign language (English) for all his people. He felt this gift would benefit them in life, communication and commerce with the rest of the world.
Notice the whimsical framed portrait of King Kaumualiʻi on the stone wall of the hale. It is the painting from his book; Arm-Westling With Kamehameha, by which author, Dr. Lee B. Croft introduced Aunty Aletha Kaohi to artist, Brook Kapukuniahi Parker. That “chicken skin moment” revitalized Aunty to renew efforts toward island appreciation and understanding of Kaumualiʻi. Brook became an active, long time partner, granting use of images toward that end, including 10,000 Posters & Timelines distributed to every classroom on Kauaʻi in 2012.

The assembled chiefs, royals and missionaries identified from left: Koʻupikea of Hanapēpē; Kaela, Haleleʻa; Missionaries: Samuel Whitney and Samuel Ruggles; Humehume Prince George Tamoreʻe; King Kaumualiʻi; Chief Kamaholelani, Kaumualiʻi’s second command; Kuina Kekaihaʻakūlou, later known as Deborah Kapule; her father, Chief Kahekili Hāupu, also called Kaiawa; Kuʻohu, Kahuna; Keliʻihonui, Kaumualiʻi pio son and intended heir.
Artwork by Brook Kapukuniahi Parker: HawaiianAtArt.orgThe Kauhale contained 25-30 hale during the Kaumuali’i reign; which included residences for himself, Queens, Humehume and other chiefs. He thought of missionaries, Mercy & Sam Whitney as his children, placing their home nearest his where he could protect and provide for their daily needs including food & furnishings. He was eternally grateful to them for returning his long lost son, thought to have died on the continent, but he also had important goal of literacy for his people. He thus provided the Missionaries with a second Hale as a schoolhouse for teaching to speak, read & write in English. Other structures included cook houses, an oven, a well, a ship building repair shop and for cultural traditions, practices, moʻolelo & local entertainment, a Halau Hula.

July 25- ARRIVED Early this morning we came in sight of Atooi…about 10, George came to the vessel … sent for his parents who immediately came in a double canoe. We were introduced to them, and the Queen not being satisfied with my giving her my hand, wished me to join noses with her, ( which is their usual salutation.)
…George conducted us first to his father’s dwelling where our goods had been stored, seated us on a sofa, then treated us with fruit as much as we wished to eat. After staying there a short time, he invited us to his own house, which is a few rods distant. Under a runni (or portico) before the door, stood a large table spread for dinner. At one side was placed a sofa, on which to sit and eat, or recline at leisure. Dinner was soon brought onto the table which consisted of a baked pig, boiled fowl, a good pice of salt beef, fried fish & onions, fried bananas, and sweet potatoes. After dinner we were again treated with fruit of several kinds of fruit.
Immediately after the queen returned from the ship, she sent some of her servants after mats to fix a-house for us to live in, and some were employed in preparing bedsteads. They had furnished them with tappes curtains of two thickness,… beds, they got ten thicknesses of tappes and spread upon them. After 10, the royal family called at the house … The King seated himself on a mattress, and then requested me to take a seat by him, which I did.
He is a man of about 46 years of age, & can speak a little English. The Queen appears like a kind & motherly woman, calls us good American children. The King says, as the people in America have been kind to his son & done much for him, so he will be a father to us. We hope that the affection which they at present manifest & the good wishes they express, will long continue; but we shall endeavor not to not to place too much dependence on the word of the heathen. The arm of the Lord can, & must be relied on. At present there appears to be nothing in the way of our proceeding unmolested in our work.
Jul 26. Last evening after the King & Queen left her, they sent us presents of bananas and pine-apples, in such abundance that we were afraid they would spoil before we could eat them. This morning we received a quantity of coconuts and watermelons, likewise a nice table, sent us from our friend, George. While our temporal wants are abundantly safe, supplied from the rich stores of a bountiful providence, may our souls be fed & nourished with spiritual food, and increase in knowledge, & holiness.
August 1- ...Our way has been paved with mercies and comforts. George is very kind, acts the part of a brother in providing for our wants. He thinks it best for us to board with him at present as we live in the same yard, a…Previous to our arrival, the King has prepared timber to build us houses, and we expect they will be finished in a few days. The natives are very friendly and continue to bring us presents.

January 22, 1821 Mercy Whitney ” A few days since Mr. W. and myself were going to the Kings; when about half way we were informed that the King and Queen were at the “hula hula” (native dance). Curiosity had many times prompted me to go and witness this scene of their diversions, but not being able to speak the language sufficiently to convince them of their folly, I had doubted the propriety of it, but being then near the place, we concluded to go. They were in a large yard on the bank of the sea, fenced off for that purpose. A great number were there collected and several rows formed consisting of men, women, and children: these were placed a sufficient distance from each other for gestures which are of the most immodest kind, and which constitute the greater part of their diversion.